“I was born in the desert,” says 60-year-old sheikh Karam Allah Amer al-Abaddy, as he sits down to boil a pot of green coffee with cardamom and ginger over coal. The coffee, known as Gabbana, is something to gather around in Wadi Kherit, located west of the city of al-Qoseir along the Red Sea. The wadi takes its name from a shrub known to grow in the area.